Our first impression of Lanzarote was how clean and well-kept the island appeared with white-washed buildings among its stark, lunar-like landscaping of natural lava hues of red, copper, gray and black.  The past eruptions of 300 extinct volcanoes have made this petite (300 sq. miles,) arid island's present day environment.  It's lava-rich soil is used by locals to balance with the lack of rain to grow garden vegetables and maintain healthy vineyards.  In contrast, Lanzarote's sandy beaches and crystal clear waters are popular with many European visitors (although we found the water in November is a little to cold for our liking.)

The best way to explore this unique island of Lanzarote is follow the works of Cesar Manrique, a visionary who had an eye for turning lava rock into modern art.  Cesar is the artistic soul of the island.  He created a balance between development and preservation of the island's natural beauty... taking a huge hole formed by lava and making an auditorium for music lovers, turning a volcanic hot pit into a restaurant barbeque grill and creating a livable home out of a lava field.

Several noteworthy centers that depict art, culture and tourism designed by Cesar Manrique on the island include:

Jameos Del Aqua is Cesar's first tourist project using the island natural landscape.  The word "Jameos" defines the part of a volcano tube whose roof has fallen down, because of weight, and what is left is a large hole.  In the center is a natural lake regulated by the ocean nearby.  Tiny white blind crabs, "Jameitos" live in this grotto lake and are endemic species of the island.  Interestingly, their origin is unknown.  One of the smaller holes has become a restaurant/bar with a dance floor.  A greater hole has created a perfect acoustical auditorium with a stage that runs along a section of the lava tube towards the ocean.  On this stage prestigious concerts are given along with other artistic events.

Cueva de los Verdes is a vast lava tube formed from the eruptions of the Crown Volcano over 4,000 years ago.  The name came from the family who once owned the land, where lava flowed to the ocean and became solid.  They discovered that tubes continued far below the surface to form cavities and tunnels, making it a refuge for 18th century natives against pirate attacks and slave hunters.  Only stairs and handrails have been added.  A shallow reflecting pool in one of the caverns has the look of a deep gorge as it takes on the image of the walls and ceiling above it.  Another huge cavern hole serves as a concert hall.

Jardin de los Cactus in Guatiza was Cesar's last project.  Built into an old volcanic quarry of ashes, it is showcased by an old flourmill at the rim's top.  Cacti are about the only plants that thrive in this lunatic landscape and there are about 2,000 varieties in this garden.  Even the entry to the restrooms  received an artistic touch by Cesar, using all natural elements.

The House Museum & Monument to the Peasant was built to immortalize their hard efforts to produce agricultural goods in a dry, arid land.  The sculpture, made of recycled water tanks from wrecked fishing boats and painted in the white-wash look of the island's buildings, is placed in the geographic center of Lanzarote.  By the way, the houses and other buildings of the island are painted white by law!  Those near the sea are trimmed in blue; others are trimmed in green, giving a clean neat look against the stark background of black lava and rust colored rocks.  The occasional cactus and abundants of canary palms give the island a Moorish look.

The House Museum is a restored small village to keep the traditional architectural style of the island.  The restaurant shows off the quality of local produce, offering wrinkled potatoes, tomatoes, onions and a variety of local fish, including "Gueldes", a tiny whole fish fried like French fries.  And is that delicious!!  The island's only cheese, hand elaborated from goats' milk, is also served. 

At La Geria, the valley of vineyards, farmers design individual pits with stonewalls in a semi-circle around the plants to protect from the prevailing winds.  The lava soil holds the moisture from the morning dew, the only watering the grapes get except for a rare rain shower.  The “Malvasia” wine is produced here and was known in Shakespeare’s time as a “Canary Sack, smooth and sweet”.  A tasting room provides customers with a chance to taste and buy the wines at a reasonable price.

Mountain of Fire and Restaurant Diablo located in Parque Nacional de Timanfaya is not to be missed.  Timanfaya became a National Park over an area where villages were destroyed by the 18th and 19th century eruptions.  Cesar created the restaurant of volcanic rock and glass to give spectacular views of the lunar-like landscape and installed a large circular BBQ grill over an open pit with heat rising from the bowels of the earth to cook the local meats.  Guests are treated to several “heat shows” like holding hot pebbles, watching dried twigs flame up when thrown in a volcanic hole, and last, a steam geyser erupting from a pot of water poured into a hole in the ground.  One then realizes that just below the surface where we stand, the earth’s boiling magna is still quite active and alive.

Local tour buses drive visitors around the “Route of the Volcanoes”.  Along the top ridge, we have a view of one of the larger calderas, the Raven's Crater.  This lava field with smooth cone shaped mountains as a back drop in hues of black, rust, and browns makes Hawaii’s lava formations take a back seat.  A camel ride on the southern part of Timanfaya gives visitors a chance to experience the sensation of what it is like to travel on animals who provides the constant sounds of growling and passing gas, along with peeing without warning.  Just think that camels were the island's only mode of transportation up until about 50 years ago.

Cesar Manrique’s home is the headquarters for the Foundation that he and a group of his friends started in 1982, to promote an artistic and cultural environment throughout the islands.  He built his house on a lava field, taking advantage of caves, tunnels and spaces left by lava formations.  Walkways iced by white smooth floors and walls open out to caves, which serve as a living room, dining area, baths, and entertainment bar. 

A small pool like the one at Jameos del Agua is surrounded by plants.  Some of Cesar’s modern art, and even a few Picassos, hang in his studio.  Large windows give a view of the lava field and an appreciation of the work and effort that went into making a contemporary living quarters out of huge chunks of lave rock and empty spaces.  By using the formations placed by eruptions over the centuries, he was able to mold an architectural work of art to be appreciated by those who come to visit and admire his talents.

Lanzarote is an island greatly influenced by Cesar Manrique’s artistic touch.  Without his cultural focal points and the clean white houses, it would be just a bare volcanic island without a reason to visit. 

Hotel Los Fariones in Puerto del Carmen is one of many beach front resorts that cater to the European group tours.  Vacationers spend most of the days around the pool or on the beaches, which leaves the island's more interesting sites free of tourist crowds.

Would you believe that this is a sunrise taken from our balcony - of course, it was 5 am.  We saw the some of the most beautiful sunrises and sunsets on this island.

Taking the "Good" with the "Bad" ~

During our travels through these islands, we recorded the best and worst on each island.  Of course, these are our observations and opinions to share with you as a way to provide an overview of our impressions.

The Best of Lanzarote:
1 - The artistic efforts of local Cesar Manrique - "Wow!" - what beautifully designed natural landmarks
2 - The resort was conveniently located to the beach and the main promenade of town - and daily tours to any site on the island (or others)
3 - Cleanliness of the island - even the buildings are painted in clean white with either blue trim for coastal locations or green for interior
4 - Typical Canarian dishes found "off-the-tourist-circuit" and at Municipalities de Camsepito is superb esp. limpets, octopus, and guelds (fried minnows)

The Worst of Lanzarote:
1 - Toilets with no water tank - where's the natural preservation where it comes to toilets that run for minutes to no end
2 - Not only having to pay a $2.00 deposit per beach towel, but having the early rising Europeans claim all the claise lounge by poolside before breakfast
3 - Shopkeepers seemed more interested in stalking customers than helping them
4 - The island's stray cat population likely out- numbers the shopkeepers who feed them at closing time

A SPECIAL THANKS: We were very fortunate to have Cliff Pulford and Luis Lopez of Viajes Intersol to show us around this fabulous island.  If you plan to visit Lanzarote, you can contact Cliff Pulford, Manager of Viajes Intersol via e-mail at lanzarote@intersol.es

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